The Balkans

ZadarSplitDubrovnikMontenegroBosniaEuropeTravel DiaryCroatia

Apr 15

Tattooed travelers, buckle up! The call of the open road had us itching for adventure, a long weekend pilgrimage through the breathtaking landscapes of Croatia and beyond. Our itinerary was a feast for the eyes: Zadar, Split, Dubrovnik, the allure of Montenegro, and a tantalizing peek into Bosnia. The anticipation hung thick as we parked the car, readying ourselves for a late-night escape, our flight scheduled for around 11 pm. The airport, nearly deserted, felt strangely peaceful during our quiet wait before we finally boarded, our minds already racing with the possibilities ahead.

Touchdown in Croatia, around 1 am, marked the official start of our escapade. We wasted no time claiming our rental car, eagerness trumping weariness. But a surprise awaited us: the fuel gauge hovered dangerously close to empty, a stark contrast to the full tanks we normally expect. Travel-fatigued or not, the race against the clock was on, our quest to find an open gas station beginning with a meager 60 KM to spare.

The roads were ghostly quiet, the traffic lights seemingly governed by their own mysterious rhythm, teasing us with prolonged reds. Our route to the gas station unveiled the quirky side of Croatian travel. We stumbled into unexpected road construction, a haphazard arrangement of cones serving as our only guide. Thankfully, a fellow driver navigated the impromptu maze, revealing that Croatia’s roadworks operate on a schedule dictated by… well, who knows? Refueled, we faced the next puzzle: escaping the gas station itself. The road ahead simply ended, a gaping hole and a lack of signage leaving us bewildered. Once more, we surrendered to the kindness of strangers, trailing another vehicle, laughing at the delightful unpredictability of Croatian roadways.

Hotel Pinija

After a detour that tested our sense of direction, we finally found ourselves back on the main road, our destination: Hotel Pinija. A short twenty-minute drive, punctuated by a few winding, secluded lanes, delivered us to this coastal sanctuary. From the outside, the hotel radiated understated elegance, hinting at a luxurious experience that immediately piqued our curiosity.

The interior, upon entering, was a study in modern chic - as if recently refreshed by a designer's touch. A stylish bar area anchored the lobby, with its inviting white chairs and softly twinkling lights, creating a truly captivating atmosphere. Following our check-in, anticipation propelled us towards our room, promising much-needed rest after our late-night escapade.

However, the elevator doors opened to a different scene. The hallway, in contrast to the stunning lobby, felt noticeably older and carried a slightly musty aroma. Yet, despite this initial setback, our room offered a comfortable and peaceful haven. Weary but excited for the adventures that lay ahead, particularly KrKa National Park, we settled in, ready to embrace the night.

Krka National Park

Our day began with the sun, an early 6:00 AM wake-up call fueling our eagerness for adventure. We were set for a 7:30 AM tour, and with the pickup spot conveniently located, we wasted no time in preparing and heading out. Punching the address into the GPS, we found ourselves navigating a maze of rather unusual roads, prompting a touch of doubt about our chosen path. Yet, with a spirit of determination and a few necessary detours, we arrived with minutes to spare, even managing to snag a coveted parking spot. The parking machine, a cryptic contraption, presented its own challenge, seeming intent on keeping us on our toes. But through a mix of persistence and problem-solving, we cracked its code, securing our spot and a sense of accomplishment. Finally, we boarded the van, fashionably late yet eager to begin our journey to Skradin, our first stop.

Originally planning to catch a few z's on the bus, sleep remained elusive for both William and me. Instead, we were captivated by the picturesque countryside unfolding outside our window. The emerald green landscape dotted with grazing sheep was a soothing sight. Arriving in Skradin after what felt like a fleeting drive, our guide provided a brief introduction to the area before directing us to our next mode of transport: a boat to Krka National Park. We used the brief stop to grab some refreshments and much needed coffee, fortifying ourselves for the day’s adventures. With our beverages in hand, we boarded the boat, excited to set sail for the famed national park.

As someone who prefers solid ground, I found myself surprisingly at ease during our slow, steady journey toward Krka. The scenery was nothing short of breathtaking – rolling green hills teeming with nature, warmed by the sun’s golden rays overhead. The azure waters shimmered below, creating a mesmerizing contrast to the verdant landscape. After a peaceful 20-minute ride, we arrived at our destination. Stepping off the boat, our guide pointed us towards a pathway lined with charming little shops, enhancing the allure of our experience. What lay ahead, however, was truly spellbinding - the magnificent falls, shimmering just beyond the path before the bridge.

The sheer size and beauty of the waterfall took our breath away. Water cascaded down with a powerful yet graceful energy, its clarity like polished crystal, creating a scene of pure, raw beauty. After spending some time marveling at the falls, our group continued along the trail, passing by stalls overflowing with sugared lemons and oranges, tempting displays of nuts, and aromatic olive oils. Further along, a plateau revealed yet another stunning view, this time of the upper falls. Nestled within this natural beauty, we found a welcoming café, a souvenir shop brimming with trinkets, and even a quaint blacksmith's workshop.

After a quick coffee break, our guide led us deeper into the park’s rich history. Our first stop showcased the area’s donkeys where our guide explained their integral role in Croatian heritage, emphasizing that each family was once granted their own. Continuing our journey, we reached the upper house, home to a mill and a traditional kitchen. The intricate workings of the mill wheels fascinated us, as did the ingenuity of the drive mechanism. The kitchen offered a peek into the past, demonstrating the Peka method of preparing traditional Croatian meals.

As our cultural journey unfolded, we explored a perfectly preserved water collection system, six small channels designed to distribute water to various areas. We even discovered an area dedicated to washing clothes, complete with a vintage roller to wring them out. With the historical portion of our tour complete, we began our trek back to the river. The journey was nothing short of magical. The boardwalk seemed to float us over the crystal-clear water, the clarity of which revealed shoals of fish swimming beneath. Surrounded by lush foliage, we savored each step, the tranquil ambiance surrounding us. The combination of verdant leaves and the gentle currents created an atmosphere of serene beauty. At the end of the trail, a magnificent White Mulberry tree, over 400 years old, awaited us, adorned with a delicate crocheted pattern.

With time to spare before our return boat, we decided to take a look at some souvenirs, only to discover that everyone else was already on board! A sense of bewilderment washed over us – how had we fallen behind? Spurred by our guide's insistence that we couldn’t miss the departure, we sprinted towards the boat. The confusion lingered as we boarded, still puzzling over how the rest of the group had made it in time while we were running late. Thankfully, we managed to secure seats just as the boat began to pull away from the dock.

Eis Cafe Sola

After our return to Skradin, our thoughtful tour guide suggested several culinary options for us to discover. In high spirits following our excursion, we ambled through the picturesque town, taking in its delightful ambiance.

Ultimately, we chose "Eis Cafe Sola" for our midday repast, deciding to dine alfresco and relishing the sun's radiant heat and the soft breeze gracing our skin. The welcoming staff greeted us warmly and provided excellent service during our meal.

Sipping refreshing Hugo spritz's, we examined the menu and made our choices. I selected a savory chicken pizza, and Will chose the tantalizing picante pizza.

At Eis Cafe Sola, the pizzas captivated our senses - visually appealing with their artfully golden cheese and sauce, enhancing the flavors with each bite. The experience at the cafe was well-rounded, with its enchanting location, dedicated service, and diverse food selection, making it an unforgettable dining experience. We happily gave it an 8 out of 10 rating.

Rejuvenated from our satisfying meal, we proceeded to the designated meeting point, eager for the next adventure: a wine tasting session.

A Visit to Vinarija Sladic

Our excursion to Vinarija Sladic began with a picturesque scene: an inviting outdoor space where tables were laden with glistening cheese in olive oil and the warm, comforting aroma of freshly baked bread. The winery owner, radiating genuine warmth, greeted us and shared the story of his family's business, a passion project involving his father and two brothers. He proudly mentioned that his mother was the baker of the delicious bread and the cheese a delightful blend of sheep and cow's milk. This personal touch immediately set a welcoming, rustic tone.

Expectations were high as we embarked on the tasting. We sampled their white, followed by their rosé, red, and finally a dessert wine. Sadly, none of the wines particularly resonated with our palates. Despite our usual appreciation for both white and rosé, these particular selections fell somewhat flat, lacking the smooth and complex character we had anticipated.

Will found a glimmer of hope in the dessert wine, though it didn't fully capture his enthusiasm. While the homemade bread proved to be a true delight, the cheese, unfortunately, lacked a defining flavor profile. However, despite our lukewarm reception to the wine and cheese, we couldn’t deny the charming ambiance and the owner’s genuine hospitality. The experience, while pleasant, ultimately fell short of our sensory expectations.

Our return trip to Zadar prompted us to reflect on the day's experiences as a whole. The overall feeling was that the tour was adequate, though perhaps a bit generic - I felt I could have orchestrated a similar visit myself. The early start did enable us to explore Krka National Park, but it also meant that many places were still closed upon our arrival, limiting our options. There was also a palpable sense of rushing as we prepared to leave, which somewhat diminished the enjoyment. That being said, I did appreciate the tour guide's knowledgeable commentary about the history of each space within the national park, adding depth and context to our visit. Despite these mixed feelings, I would still recommend the tour to anyone interested in exploring the national park and its rich history. The experience provides a good overview, even if individual aspects, like the wine tasting, may not meet every expectation.

What We Liked About The Tour

Stunning Scenery: Krka National Park’s natural beauty was breathtaking. The waterfalls, crystal-clear waters, and lush greenery created an idyllic setting. Walking along the boardwalks surrounded by such tranquil beauty was a highlight of the day.
Cultural Insights: The historical elements of the park, like the preserved mill, traditional kitchen, and vintage water systems, offered fascinating glimpses into Croatian heritage. The donkeys and the guide’s stories about their significance were an engaging touch.
Picturesque Boat Ride: The boat ride to the park provided stunning views of the river and surrounding landscape, making the journey as enjoyable as the destination.

What We Didn’t Like

Rushed Feeling: The tour often felt hurried, especially during transitions, like leaving the park and catching the boat. This sense of urgency detracted from the overall experience.
Wine Tasting Disappointment: While the ambiance was lovely, the wines didn’t resonate with us. They lacked the complexity we enjoy, and the cheese served was underwhelming in flavor.
Limited Options at Early Arrival: Arriving at the park early meant some spots were still closed, which felt like a missed opportunity for a more leisurely exploration.

Tuk-Tuk Tour

Returning to Zadar, we found ourselves with an hour and a half to luxuriate in a bit of freedom before our next experience: a private Tuk Tuk tour culminating in a wine tasting. Earlier in the day, the tour company had reached out, hoping to move our tour earlier to align with the winery’s 5 pm closing. Unfortunately, our prior commitments prevented the scheduling change. Thankfully, the company was remarkably understanding. They assured us they'd find a solution, and promptly requested our closest pick-up point, providing us with driver details.

With some free time, we ambled through a local mall, our excitement growing for the Tuk Tuk adventure that awaited. When the time arrived, we met our affable Tuk Tuk driver, who was thrilled to take us on an urban discovery through Croatia's streets. The open-air Tuk Tuk became our personal viewing platform, allowing us to fully absorb the beauty of the neighborhoods, with their charming houses and inviting cobblestone passages. The ride was certainly lively, with the bumps adding a touch of authenticity to our exploration.

The Sea Organ

Zadar's coastline hums with a unique and captivating energy, a testament to the visionary work of Nikola Bašić. Our first encounter was with the Sea Organ, a marvel of engineering and art that transforms the Adriatic's raw power into an ethereal melody. Built in 2005 as part of a post-war revitalization effort, this installation embeds a network of pipes and whistles beneath smooth marble steps.

As the waves surge and recede, they breathe life into this hidden instrument, creating a symphony of haunting tones that shift and change with the sea's rhythm. Standing there, Will and I were utterly mesmerized; the sound was like nothing we’d ever heard, a deeply soothing and otherworldly lullaby played by the ocean itself. The vastness of the sea seemed to amplify the experience, making it truly unforgettable.

Greeting to the Sun

Just a stone's throw away, the Greeting to the Sun (Pozdrav Suncu) continues Bašić's dialogue with nature. This modern art installation, a circular array of 300 glass solar panels, pulsates with a different kind of energy. During the day, these panels silently gather the sun's rays. Although we visited before the sun dipped below the horizon, missing its spectacular nighttime display, we could still feel its latent power.

The sleek, circular design, representing the planets and their celestial dance, perfectly echoed the nearby ocean and the rhythms of the city, a seamless blend of natural and human creation. Even in daylight, it was a stunning, thought-provoking sight.

Church of St. Donat

Our Tuk Tuk journey through Zadar unfolded like a living history lesson, our driver acting as a knowledgeable guide to the city's past. We were immediately captivated by the Church of St. Donat, a magnificent pre-Romanesque structure dating back to the 9th century.

Its imposing rotunda shape and sturdy stone walls spoke volumes of the early medieval period, a tangible testament to the era. Named for the bishop who commissioned it, the church stands as a symbol of enduring grandeur.

Old Town

The Old Town proved to be an even deeper dive into Zadar's rich tapestry. A vibrant blend of epochs, its streets are a captivating mosaic of Roman ruins, elegant Venetian architecture, and bustling contemporary cafes.

At its heart lies the Roman Forum, an impressive open square constructed in the 1st century under Emperor Augustus. This forum once throbbed with the pulse of civic and religious life, a powerful echo of Zadar's Roman roots.

Sphinx of Zadar

Adding an element of delightful surprise was the Sphinx of Zadar. A 20th-century creation, this monument was commissioned by local artist Giovanni Smirich as a poignant tribute to his late wife.

Unlike its ancient Egyptian counterparts, this sphinx is rumored to possess the power to grant wishes. Its enigmatic presence, coupled with the mystery surrounding its purpose, infused our exploration with a sense of wonder and intrigue.

Harbor – Cookhouse and Club

Our Tuk Tuk adventure culminated in a wine tasting, a detour that led us unexpectedly to the “Harbor – Cookhouse and Club.” The original venue had closed for the day, but this change proved to be a fortunate twist. Any initial skepticism I harbored vanished upon stepping into the venue; its upscale ambiance and stunning waterfront views were a delightful surprise.

The warm welcome from our server at the Harbor immediately set a positive tone. We were greeted with glasses of crisp white wine and a tantalizing food tasting tray laden with artisanal cheeses, crusty breads, and cured meats. The charcuterie board was a visual and culinary masterpiece, and we eagerly indulged, savoring each bite. The smooth white wine was the perfect complement, and we were soon toasting to the experience. The next pour was a delightful rosé, equally impressive and adding a rosy hue to our already enjoyable afternoon.

However, our idyllic moment took an unexpected turn when a rogue seagull descended on our table, zeroing in on the charcuterie board with alarming focus. Despite Will's swift attempt to fend off the feathered marauder, the brazen bird managed to snatch an entire block of cheese before retreating to a nearby perch. As it circled ominously overhead, I half-jokingly warned Will of its impending return, sensing this was far from over.

Armed with a (frankly, flimsy) butter knife, Will bravely faced the seagull’s comeback, while the surrounding patrons watched with a mix of suspense and amusement. Thankfully, his persistence paid off, and the seagull was successfully banished – much to our relief and the entertainment of the crowd. It was a close encounter of the avian kind – and one I’m perfectly happy to not repeat any time soon!

Following this unexpected drama, the staff quickly cleared our table and we decided to explore the dessert menu. We opted for a decadent baklava cheesecake and a classic tiramisu, paired with warm cappuccinos. The desserts arrived with a flourish, each one a miniature work of art. The first bite confirmed that their taste lived up to their presentation.

The tiramisu was, without exaggeration, one of the best I’ve ever tasted – a bold statement considering my self-proclaimed status as a tiramisu connoisseur. Will was equally enthusiastic about his cheesecake, describing the complex flavors with genuine delight. When we requested the bill, we were surprised to learn that the entire meal, including the wine and desserts, was included in our Tuk Tuk tour package. Confused and grateful, we exchanged bewildered looks before deciding to leave a generous tip, a small gesture to acknowledge the exceptional service and hospitality we experienced.

What We Liked About The Tour:

Flexible and accommodating tour company: Despite scheduling challenges, the company was understanding and proactive in finding a solution for your tour.
Engaging Tuk Tuk experience: The open-air ride provided a unique way to experience Zadar's charming streets and historical landmarks.
Knowledgeable guide: The Tuk Tuk driver enriched the tour by sharing historical and cultural insights.
Scenic and upscale wine-tasting venue: Harbor – Cookhouse and Club offered a stunning waterfront ambiance and a delightful charcuterie board with wine pairings.

What We Didn’t Like About The Tour:

Bumpy Tuk Tuk ride: While adding authenticity, the bumps could have been slightly uncomfortable depending on road conditions.

Overall, the Tuk Tuk tour was a delightful and unique experience that combined history, culture, and local flavor with a touch of adventure. It offered a fun way to explore Zadar, from its stunning landmarks like the Sea Organ and the Church of St. Donat to its modern marvels like the Greeting to the Sun. The wine-tasting finale at the Harbor – Cookhouse and Club elevated the experience with delicious food, exceptional service, and picturesque views. While the rogue seagull added an unexpected twist, it became a memorable part of the journey. Despite minor hiccups, the tour was well-organized, enjoyable, and filled with moments that made it truly unforgettable.

End of Day: Zadar

With our appetites satisfied and our hearts brimming with joy, we made our way back to the car, ready to wind down and return to our hotel. However, as fortune would have it, we arrived just in time for the golden hour. Captivated by the beauty of the moment, we decided to make a quick detour to the shore of the Adriatic Sea to witness one of Zadar’s most famed spectacles—a breathtaking sunset.

The sky transformed into a vivid canvas of oranges, pinks, and purples, blending seamlessly with the shimmering ocean below. We stood in quiet awe, soaking in the serene beauty as the sun dipped beneath the horizon, painting the world in hues that seemed almost unreal. It was the perfect way to end an eventful day, a moment of stillness that allowed us to reflect on the memories we had made.

With a zipline tour in Split waiting for us the next morning, we decided it was time to call it a night. We returned to our accommodations, our minds replaying the day's adventures—the soothing sounds of the Sea Organ, the charming streets of Zadar, and the vivid colors of the sunset. As we drifted off to sleep, excitement for the adventures ahead filled our dreams, leaving us eagerly awaiting the next chapter of our journey.

Split, Croatia

Our day began with a jolt of anticipation, the promise of a Split ziplining adventure pulling us from sleep. At Hotel Pinija, the breakfast buffet was a vibrant spread – sizzling omelets, golden pancakes, a veritable feast to fuel our morning. We devoured our fill, gathered our belongings, and with a final glance at the hotel, piled into the car, eager to hit the Croatian roads.

The two-hour drive was a visual delight, a panorama of emerald mountains unfolding before us, a stunning prologue to our destination. As Split drew closer, the ancient Fortress of Klis emerged, a sentinel perched high on the mountainside, its stone walls gazing over the sprawling city below. Arriving in Split, I keyed the zipline tour's meeting point into the GPS, navigating us into the urban maze. The designated spot, however, proved elusive, with no clear signs or storefronts to guide us.

Ziplining

We parked and set out on foot, a touch of uncertainty adding to the excitement. Then, a van materialized, its driver’s question ("Are you here for ziplining?") cutting through the air. Confirming our purpose, we were instructed to wait. Almost immediately, the scene became more vibrant as a gaggle of excited college freshman joined us, their energy raising the anticipation further as we all stood ready for our adventure to begin.

The trip to our ziplining destination turned out to be a memorable experience. Our fellow riders engaged in energetic and youthful conversations, which led our driver to turn up the radio, likely trying to provide some background music to the lively chat.

Once we arrived at the check-in point, the efficient instructor equipped us with the necessary gear, including backpacks for our journey. We then hopped back into the van and began our ascent up Mount Kozjak, where our ziplining adventure was set to commence.

Upon parking the van on a narrow road, we started hiking up the mountain. Due to the lack of water and the unavailability from the instructors, the hike proved to be more strenuous than we had expected.

However, we eventually reached the first zipline, where I felt parched and yearned for a drink. Despite the initial difficulty, the instructor informed us about the ziplining course, which consisted of six ziplines of increasing length, culminating in a thrilling suspension bridge.

Sharing the ziplining experience with a group of eight had its slower moments, as every zipline provoked a flurry of photo and video documentation. Yet, those pauses paled in comparison to the jaw-dropping panoramic vistas of Split’s city and coastline—each view a reward in itself. The thrill of the ziplines themselves, carving through the mountain terrain beneath a perfectly temperate sky, was unmatched. The instructors skillfully balanced their professional duties with bursts of humor, keeping our spirits high.

The final ride and subsequent crossing of the suspension bridge felt like a triumphant conclusion to our aerial journey. A short trek back to the check-in, followed by a desperate pilgrimage to the water dispenser, where I quickly downed several cups, restored my parched throat.

The return journey found us sharing a van with a group of boisterous college students, their animated conversations a stark contrast to the surprisingly engaging chat we struck up with our driver, who regaled us with stories of flights, wine, and local gems. It was the perfect, conversational descent from the heights of our ziplining experience in Split.

What We Liked About The Activity:

Scenic views: The breathtaking panoramic views of Split’s city and coastline were an unforgettable highlight, making every zipline and pause worthwhile.
Thrilling ziplines: The six ziplines of increasing length, combined with the final suspension bridge, created an exhilarating and diverse adventure.
Engaging instructors: The instructors were not only professional but also humorous, helping to create a fun and lighthearted atmosphere.

What We Didn’t’ Like About The Activity:

Lack of water availability: The absence of water during the hike up Mount Kozjak made the ascent unnecessarily strenuous and uncomfortable.
Group delays: Frequent pauses for photos and videos from the larger group sometimes disrupted the flow of the experience.
Crowded van: Sharing the van with energetic college students added some noise and chaos, though it was more a matter of personal preference.
Challenging hike: The hike to the first zipline was harder than anticipated due to the heat and lack of hydration.

Overall, the ziplining activity was an exhilarating and scenic adventure, blending thrilling rides with awe-inspiring views of Split's coastline and cityscape. The ziplines and suspension bridge provided a perfect balance of excitement and natural beauty, while the instructors’ humor and professionalism added to the fun. Although the hike up the mountain was more strenuous than expected due to a lack of water, the stunning vistas and adrenaline-fueled zips made it worth the effort. Despite minor delays from group dynamics, the experience left us with unforgettable memories and a sense of triumph at the end of the day.

Hotel Sunce

After the exhilaration of ziplining, we were ready to relax. Our first order of business was heading straight to Hotel Sunce, hoping for an early check-in, even though we were arriving about thirty minutes ahead of schedule. We figured most places would be accommodating. As we drove away from the lively town center, a sense of tranquility settled in. The road was a parade of hotels, but ours stood out – a vision of crisp white walls and elegant gold lettering. Pulling into what appeared to be a deserted parking lot, we approached the entrance, only to find the doors locked. A ring of the bell brought forth an older woman, who greeted us with a flurry of German.

She was clearly engrossed in a phone conversation, gesturing for us to wait. We assumed it would be brief, but the tone of her call quickly escalated, hinting at frustration on the other end. After what felt like an age, she hung up, offering a hurried apology. She inquired if we spoke German or Croatian, but we could only offer English, creating a clear language barrier. Despite our limited communication skills – minimal German on our part and broken English on hers – she somehow managed to process our check-in, though not without a few hurdles.

A glitch with a card machine led to a double charge, adding another layer of complexity to the already challenging arrival. Eventually, with a sigh, she handed over our key and escorted us to our room. Upon entering, she quickly swept away all of the decorative pillows before bidding us farewell. Despite the initial chaos, the room itself was well-appointed and perfect for a comfortable night’s stay. The real reward, however, was the incredibly spacious balcony and the breathtaking panorama of the shimmering Adriatic Sea that unfurled before us.

Exploring Split's Old Town & Piccolo

After checking into our hotel, the allure of Split's Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site centered around the magnificent Diocletian's Palace, beckoned us. A quick consultation with a map led us to a nearby parking garage, conveniently situated close to the heart of the action. Emerging from the car, we were immediately immersed in the charm of the Old Town, where pedestrian-friendly cobblestone streets invited exploration.

The vibrant Riva waterfront pulsed with life, a delightful mix of bustling restaurants and captivating shops. Our appetites, whetted by the morning's ziplining adventure, led us to embark on a culinary quest along the Riva. We browsed menus, drawn to the enticing aromas wafting from each establishment, finally settling on a quaint spot called Piccolo - Snack Bar. Its diverse menu promised a satisfying repast.

Our server was immediately welcoming, providing attentive service throughout our meal. After perusing the diverse options, we decided on a tantalizing spread: crispy spring rolls, a classic Caesar salad, an enticing mixed meat plate, and a Chicken Americana. To accompany our feast, we ordered a refreshing draft Heineken and a vibrant blue lagoon cocktail.

The Blue Lagoon arrived promptly, a potent concoction that, while visually appealing, proved a touch more bitter and robust than I had anticipated. Not long after, the food arrived, and we eagerly began our culinary journey. The Caesar salad, with its crisp lettuce and perfectly grilled chicken, was gone in moments. The spring rolls, offering a satisfying crunch and a delicious sweet and savory dipping sauce, followed a similar fate.

Then came the star of the show: the mixed meat plate. A carefully arranged medley of succulent sausage, tender chicken, and flavorful beef, alongside golden fries and a fragrant curry sauce, it was an explosion of taste in every bite. The meats were incredibly juicy and expertly prepared, while the curry sauce provided a delightful spicy counterpoint.

The fries, impeccably crisp and fresh, completed the ensemble. My Chicken Americana, wrapped in smoky bacon and cooked to perfection, was a symphony of savory flavors. Each element on our plates was executed with precision, leaving us thoroughly impressed. Combined with the picturesque waterfront panorama, our dining experience at Piccolo was nothing short of remarkable. We wholeheartedly award this restaurant a perfect 10/10, as it exceeded our expectations across the board – from the exceptional food and attentive service to the captivating ambiance and stunning views.

With our bill settled, we strolled next door to Gelateria Riva Split, lured by the promise of sweet indulgence. I succumbed to the siren call of the decadent Oreo gelato, while William opted for the classic richness of chocolate. Each spoonful was a burst of pure flavor, a perfect coda to our satisfying meal. With our appetites sated and our sweet cravings appeased, we ambled through the enchanting alleyways of the Old Town, browsing the local shops and soaking in the magical atmosphere of this historic Croatian gem.

Diocletian's Palace

Wandering deeper into Split’s Old Town, we were initially captivated by what seemed to be ancient, crumbling walls. But as we drew closer, the realization dawned: these were not ruins, but rather the imposing remains of Diocletian's Palace, a testament to Roman might and architectural ingenuity.

Dating back to the 4th century, this remarkably preserved palace wasn't a mere residence; it was a fortified complex that once served both as Emperor Diocletian's home and a center of military power. Within its walls, we discovered two key areas: the Peristyle and the Vestibule. The Peristyle, an expansive open courtyard embraced by elegant columns and shaded porticoes, served as the vibrant heart of the palace. Here, in the Roman era, this was where citizens gathered and where grand ceremonies unfolded. Flanked by the majestic Cathedral of Saint Domnius and an enigmatic Egyptian sphinx, a relic brought from Egypt by Diocletian himself, the Peristyle radiated an undeniable aura of history and architectural splendor.

Just beyond the Peristyle lay the Vestibule, a grand chamber strategically positioned as the gateway to the imperial apartments. This space, likely a reception area, must have once buzzed with the activity of dignitaries and visitors. Its most striking feature, a soaring central dome, still stands as a testament to the sophisticated building techniques of its time. The Vestibule’s harmonious proportions and elegant design are truly captivating.

What truly took our breath away was the seamless way the palace is interwoven with the modern city of Split. Over centuries, the city has organically grown around the palace, blurring the lines between ancient monument and urban landscape. The palace isn’t an isolated relic; it’s a living, breathing part of Split. Even better, this living history isn’t locked away behind barriers; exploring Diocletian’s Palace is completely free, allowing every visitor to embark on an accessible and enriching journey into the past.

End of Day: Split

As our relaxed amble through Old Town concluded, we began our return to the hotel, anticipating a quiet evening. But our pursuit of tranquility took a delightful detour when we discovered a quaint, family-run wine shop. Curiosity piqued by the promise of regional tastes, we couldn't resist selecting a bottle of local wine to savor later.

Back in our room, we eagerly awaited the sunset painting the Adriatic. With a bottle of Tezoro, a testament to the country's winemaking, we stepped onto our balcony, greeted by a spectacular view of the coastline.

The sun began its slow descent, bathing the sky in a golden, then fiery palette. We pulled the cork, the soft pop punctuating the stillness, and raised our glasses. It was a toast to the breathtaking beauty of the moment, and to the memories we’d gathered like precious jewels throughout the day. A sense of peaceful contentment settled as we knew sleep would soon arrive; a long drive to Dubrovnik, starting in the early hours, awaited.

Dubrovnik, Croatia

Our day began before the sun, waking at 3 a.m, with Dubrovnik and our tour of Montenegro and Bosnia calling. The drive, initially under a blanket of stars, was a peaceful prelude to the day. The freeway held us in its gentle grip as we journeyed in the early hours. With the first light, the world transformed. Rolling green mountains stretched across the horizon, and the distant sea peeked out intermittently. Leaving the freeway behind, we were greeted by roads that twisted romantically through the hills, building anticipation for our arrival. The Franjo Tuđman Bridge marked the transition; we were in Dubrovnik.

Our journey through Dubrovnik led us to the scenic Presidents Beach area, where the President Valamar Collection Hotel stood as our final destination. The hotel's stunning exterior and meticulously landscaped grounds made a truly impressive first impact. After parking, we entered the lobby, eager to offload our luggage despite arriving before check-in time. The concierge greeted us with exceptional warmth and efficiency, promising to store our bags securely and deliver them directly to our room once it became available. We were also relieved to discover that convenient guest parking was available at no extra cost. The effortless service and welcoming atmosphere immediately set a tone of exceptional hospitality, leaving us thoroughly impressed.

Montenegro & Bosnia Tour

Having parked, we were greeted by Jakob, our guide. A lifelong Croatian resident, Jakob's warm and chatty demeanor instantly made us feel welcome. He laid out the day's plan, offering flexibility since we were the only two on the tour. As we began our drive towards Montenegro, Jakob's impressive knowledge of Croatian history came alive. He explained that the hour-long journey to the border, with potential delays at customs, would be filled with fascinating stories. He started right away, detailing the origins of Dubrovnik's name, tracing it back to the Proto-Slavic word "dǫbъ," meaning 'oak,' and how "dubrovnik" evolved to signify 'oak wood' or 'oak forest.'

Dubrovnik's vivid past

Our historical journey through Croatia commenced with a dive into Dubrovnik's vivid past— an Adriatic jewel whose story echoes the broader national experience. Founded on a rocky promontory in the 7th century, the city initially existed under Venetian dominance. Yet, by the 14th century, through a combination of strategic negotiation and burgeoning trade, Dubrovnik threw off the Venetian yoke, transforming itself into the independent Republic of Ragusa—a pivotal moment in its history.

The Republic of Ragusa quickly became a beacon of prosperity and ingenuity. Renowned for its maritime prowess and its adept diplomacy, the Republic navigated the treacherous waters of European politics, preserving its autonomy in the face of surrounding empires. Ragusa flourished as a diverse and culturally rich city, its citizens excelling in commerce, art, and scholarship.

In 1667, a devastating earthquake struck, followed by destructive fires, leaving Ragusa in ruins, and the citizens tested like never before. But the Ragusans showed their enduring spirit, undertaking the arduous task of rebuilding with new architectural techniques designed to withstand such future disasters. This event, however, marked a turning point, signaling the beginning of a slow decline in the Republic's influence.

The dawn of the 19th century arrived with the thunder of Napoleon's armies, their march across Europe leaving lasting changes in their wake. For Ragusa, this era brought a tragic end to its independence. In 1805, French forces annexed the Republic, subsuming it into the Napoleonic Kingdom of Italy, and eventually, the Illyrian Provinces. This marked a pivotal and sorrowful moment in Ragusa's history. The cessation of the Napoleonic Wars in 1814 saw Dubrovnik and Dalmatia swept into the orbit of the Austrian Empire, becoming the Kingdom of Dalmatia. Under Austrian rule, modernization progressed hand-in-hand with imperial constraint. Even the Austro-Hungarian Compromise of 1867 could not suppress the burgeoning sense of Croatian national identity, which continued to simmer beneath the surface of imperial control.

The dismantling of the Austro-Hungarian Empire following World War I created a power vacuum that drastically altered the trajectory of Croatia. Split between the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes (later Yugoslavia) and the Kingdom of Italy, Croatia faced an uncertain future, marked by both aspirations and anxieties that would ultimately contribute to future unrest. World War II brought even greater hardship under Axis occupation, a period of extreme violence and instability. Post-war, Croatia was incorporated into the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, led by Tito. Despite the communist regime's efforts to suppress national identity, this sense of Croatian distinctiveness endured, eventually fueling the nation's quest for independence in the late 1980s.

Croatia's path to independence was forged in the crucible of the 1991 War of Independence, a brutal conflict sparked by the nation's declaration of sovereignty. The war, marked by intense violence and ethnic cleansing, tested the very core of Croatia's resilience. Victory in 1995's Operation Storm brought liberation to most of its territory, propelling Croatia towards its long-held dream. By 1996, this dream was realized as Croatia achieved full independence and became a member of the Council of Europe, signaling its commitment to democracy and global cooperation. Finally, in 2013, Croatia's journey culminated with its accession to the European Union, marking a significant milestone in its integration with Europe.

From the heights of the Republic of Ragusa to the battles for independence in the 1990s, Croatia's history is a testament to the enduring human spirit and the relentless pursuit of self-determination. Each chapter of this journey enriches the resilient and multifaceted identity of the Croatian people.

Jakob's recounting offered a powerful glimpse into Croatia's turbulent history, revealing its enduring strength and rich heritage. Inspired, we looked forward to delving into the beauty and stories of Montenegro and Bosnia.

Lokrum Island

Jakob then shared a fascinating history lesson about Lokrum Island, a place shrouded in mystery and legend. According to local lore, the island was cursed by monks in the 1700s. The Dubrovnik Republic no longer wanted the monks there, and with the proposal of three of their nobles, they sold the island to nine Dubrovnik citizens. The monks left on a boat, never to return. Soon after, a series of unfortunate events befell those connected to the island, reinforcing the belief in the curse.

First, death struck the three nobles who had proposed the sale. One was killed by his servant, another drowned, and the third jumped to his death from Lovrijenac Fortress. The nine citizens who initially purchased the island were so frightened that they quickly sold it to Captain Tomasevic, an extremely wealthy man who subsequently went bankrupt and had to sell the island. Archduke Maximilian then became the new owner, transforming it into his summer manor. However, he was later executed by a firing squad, and his wife, Archduchess Charlotte of Austria, went completely insane.

Maximilian’s nephew inherited the island but drowned on his first day there when a strong wind overturned his boat. Crown Prince Rudolf of Austria moved to the island with Maria Vetsera, but both ended up dead under mysterious circumstances. Empress Elisabeth of Bavaria, Rudolf’s mother, tried to rid the family of the cursed island by offering it back to the monks, who refused to take it. An auction was held at this point, and Princess Elisabeth Windischgrätz persuaded her grandfather, Francis Joseph I, to buy the island. Five years later, Empress Elisabeth, thinking she had escaped the curse by selling the island, was killed by the Italian anarchist Luigi Lucheni.

Princess Elisabeth Windischgrätz herself later faced scandal and disinheritance after firing shots at a nightclub dancer in Prague. Finally, Archduke Francis Ferdinand and his wife Sophie intended to spend the summer of 1914 on the island but were prevented by their assassination in Sarajevo. After 700 years, the family lost their crown in 1918. Today, Lokrum Island is a popular day excursion destination for locals.

However, no one is allowed to stay overnight, and the only access is by boat. For those feeling brave, it’s said that the curse will be lifted only when all the wax from the candles used to curse the island is collected. Jakob shared many more intriguing facts and stories of Croatia, enough to fill a book, and I highly recommend delving into the history for a deeper understanding of Croatia and all it entails.

Following a series of captivating stories, we arrived at border control. To our relief, the line was minimal. Jakob, with his effortless command of Croatian, expertly navigated the required paperwork, ensuring a swift and seamless crossing. His proficiency proved indispensable, saving us from potential confusion and delay.

Tramontana Beach Bar, Montenegro

Our journey through Montenegro began with an unforgettable panorama – the Bay of Kotor spreading out before us in a wash of serene blues. After taking in its beauty, our guide, Jakob, presented a choice: a visit to the Our Lady of the Rocks Island or brunch at a nearby eatery. We, with our stomachs leading the way, opted for brunch, which led us to Tramontana Beach Bar.

This stylish beachside location boasted a varied menu, and we decided to try omelets, pepperoni pinwheels, and sweet bread. The omelets were a highlight – perfectly light and fluffy, brimming with fresh produce and melting cheese. The pepperoni pinwheels offered a delightful contrast with their crisp pastry, spicy pepperoni, and gooey cheese filling. And finally, the sweet bread, soft and moist with a slightly crunchy exterior, provided a comforting, subtly sweet conclusion.

Although the service was neither warm nor cold, the sheer quality of the food combined with the beautiful atmosphere meant we left satisfied, rating our visit a respectable 7 out of 10

Town of Kotor, Montenegro

Leaving our previous stop behind, we journeyed onwards to Kotor, a town immediately captivating with its imposing medieval fortifications. The atmosphere was a unique blend of grandeur and intimacy, a feeling of both expansiveness and close-quarters charm.

Our adventure began with a climb along the ancient walls, each step revealing a more breathtaking view of the town nestled below and the winding river beyond. We even spotted the quaint Church of St. Nicholas tucked within the protective embrace of these stones. Descending into the heart of Kotor, we were immediately immersed in a labyrinth of narrow, winding pathways, each twist and turn leading to hidden corners and unexpected discoveries.

Everywhere we turned, we were greeted by the sight of stray cats, often accompanied by a plethora of cat-themed souvenirs. A quick online search revealed the charming local belief that cats, having once saved Kotor from plagues of rodents and snakes, are now considered symbols of good fortune. Indeed, there’s even a museum dedicated to them. Beyond its feline inhabitants, Kotor also offered a charming collection of gift shops, inviting wine stores, and lively restaurants. The blend of rich history, vibrant culture, and undeniable local charm made our visit truly unforgettable.

After a satisfying hour and a half exploring, we reluctantly left Kotor behind and made our way to a scenic lookout point perched high above Kotor Bay. The panoramic view that awaited us was simply stunning. The sky was an intense, cloudless blue that contrasted beautifully with the vibrant turquoise of the bay. The terracotta rooftops of the city below popped against the emerald green of the surrounding hills – a scene worthy of a postcard. The fact that we had this breathtaking vista all to ourselves made the experience even more magical.

Stara Hercegovina, Bosnia

Once back in the car, we headed towards Bosnia. After navigating the winding roads that seemed to stretch endlessly, we finally crossed into Bosnia. The border crossing was a bit more congested than before, testing our patience, but Jakob expertly guided us through.

Our destination: the charming "Stara Hercegovina" restaurant. Its stone facade hinted at a history and tradition we were eager to experience. Jakob, our local guide, took charge, ordering for us all. We settled in with a refreshing lemonade and a cold beer, eagerly anticipating the traditional Bosnian meat dish that followed. While the wait was a little longer than we'd hoped, the food itself was a revelation – savory and authentic, reminding us of a similar dish we'd sampled in Split. It was fascinating to learn that Bosnian cuisine is so prevalent in Croatian restaurants.

Despite the delicious meal, the experience wasn't without its quirks. The lemonade, unfortunately, tasted more like diluted lemon juice, and we found ourselves constantly batting away persistent bees. The service, too, was a bit brusque, leaving us with a slightly mixed impression.

Overall, we'd rate the experience a 4/10. While the food was a highlight, the other factors impacted our enjoyment. Still, with our stomachs full and our curiosity piqued, we were eager to see what else Bosnia had to offer.

Hercegovačka Gračanica Temple, Bosnia

Our exploration of Bosnia continued as Jakob guided us to the Hercegovačka Gračanica Temple, a majestic structure crowning a mountaintop. The panoramic views were breathtaking – rugged mountains piercing the horizon, and a vibrant green city sprawling below. The temple itself was a captivating sight, its red brick walls contrasting beautifully with the orange and gray stone accents, creating a striking visual harmony.

Stepping inside, we were immediately enveloped by the temple's grandeur. The walls were a canvas of life, adorned with breathtaking frescoes. Vivid depictions of biblical stories unfolded before our eyes, each intricate brushstroke adding a layer of depth and color. These murals, reaching from the floor to the high ceiling, seemed to whisper tales of faith and history.

Polished marble gleamed underfoot, adding a sense of opulence to the space. The soaring domes and elegant arches created an airy and expansive atmosphere. Light filtered through the stained glass windows, scattering kaleidoscopic patterns onto the marble floor, further amplifying the sense of serenity and spiritual contemplation within.

Though our intended next stop, a market in downtown Trebinje, was thwarted by a closed parking area, Jakob quickly offered a compelling alternative. He promised a spectacular vantage point above Dubrovnik, boasting some of the region’s finest views. We readily agreed, and soon found ourselves heading back towards the Croatian coast, leaving behind the temple’s quiet grandeur and the Bosnian landscape.

Mount Srd

Our return journey to Dubrovnik, a smooth three-hour drive on a Sunday graced with minimal traffic, felt effortless. Border control proved equally swift, and soon we found ourselves back within the city's embrace. The next adventure unfolded as we began our ascent up a winding mountain road, a one-way path that demanded careful navigation. Jakob, our skilled driver, expertly maneuvered through the frequent stops and tight squeezes, his confidence reassuring. The reward at the summit was a view that stole our breath away.

Beneath a vast, baby-blue sky, the crystal-clear waters of the Adriatic shimmered, a perfect complement to the terracotta rooftops of Dubrovnik nestled below. The scene was a breathtaking panorama, showcasing iconic landmarks like Porporela, Tvrđava Svetog Ivana (St. John Fortress), Porat Dubrovnik (Dubrovnik Harbour), and The Lazareti. I highly recommend delving into the rich history of these structures; each tells a powerful story about this remarkable city’s past.

Words struggle to capture the sheer magic of the view from Mount Srd. Even the photographs we took seemed almost surreal, too perfect to be real. It was a truly unforgettable climax to our tour, a perfect final impression of Dubrovnik's beauty.

Excited to reflect on our day, we eagerly headed back towards our hotel, the conversation flowing freely with Jakob. He sparked our curiosity with the mention of a nearby cave bar, a unique concept that immediately piqued our interest. Jakob kindly dropped us off, and with sincere gratitude for his wonderful guidance, we bid him farewell. Back at the hotel, a new adventure awaited as we looked forward to exploring its amenities, already planning our next outing.

What We Liked About The Tour:

Jakob’s Expertise and Personality: Jakob was warm, engaging, and incredibly knowledgeable, sharing rich historical insights about Dubrovnik, Croatia, Montenegro, and Bosnia. His storytelling made history come alive and added depth to the experience.
Flexibility: Since it was a private tour, the flexibility to customize our day was a big plus.
Historical Insights: Learning about Dubrovnik's transformation from the Republic of Ragusa to modern Croatia was fascinating. The stories about Lokrum Island and its curse added a layer of mystery and intrigue.

What We Didn't Like:

Service and Atmosphere: The service at both Tramontana Beach Bar and Stara Hercegovina felt impersonal, and at the latter, the lemonade tasted like diluted lemon juice, which detracted from the experience.

The tour was well-organized, with Jakob’s guidance being a standout highlight. While there were some minor setbacks, such as lackluster service and occasional delays, the breathtaking views, historical insights, and unique cultural experiences made the trip memorable. The blend of history, scenic beauty, and local charm more than compensated for the occasional hiccups, leaving us with stories and memories to cherish.

If you’re considering the same trip, you can find the link to the actual tour we experienced with Jakob below.

Valamar Collection Dubrovnik President

Our check-in at the Valamar Collection Dubrovnik President took an unexpected turn when we were informed we were V-Star members and directed to a special desk. Champagne was offered, and a hint of suspicion crept in – was there a catch? But the lady at the desk quickly assured us there wasn’t, detailing the delightful privileges that came with our status. An exclusive floor with complimentary snacks and champagne, a designated pool area with poolside service, and a private lounge were all part of our upgrade. They even offered a 1 pm late check-out, a welcome convenience given our early ATV adventure the next day. We were still slightly in disbelief, but after an easy check-in, we were escorted to our room.

Our suspicions faded as we realized there were no hidden costs; I had unknowingly secured the higher V-Star package. The room’s immediate impression was one of luxurious serenity. A massive bed awaited, adorned with a welcome gift of flip-flops and towels. A cozy seating area, featuring fresh fruit, water, wine, and a Nespresso machine, completed the interior. Beyond the glass doors, an expansive balcony beckoned with loungers. The bathroom was a sanctuary, boasting both bath and shower and a complete range of toiletries. It was a haven designed for relaxation.

After settling in, we were eager to enjoy the hotel's complimentary offerings. We made our way to the snack room, where we found a modest spread of fresh fruit and tasty little sandwiches. With champagne in hand, we then decided to explore the pool area.

The hotel boasted both indoor and outdoor pools, but the former was too warm and the latter too brisk for our taste. Instead, we spent some time basking in the sun. Recovered and refreshed, we changed back in our room and set off to find the intriguing Cave Bar Jakob had described.

Cave Bar At Hotel More

Following Jakob's recommendation, the Hotel More's Cave Bar was remarkably accessible, an eight-minute Uber ride away. Nestled within the hotel, the journey to the bar was itself an experience: two descents in separate elevators, followed by a short walk through a hallway. The bar revealed itself as a breathtaking cavern, its ceiling studded with lights mimicking stars, bathed in an ethereal glow of blues and purples. While seeking an outdoor table, we initially found none available.

Returning inside, we perused the menu, only to find ourselves largely overlooked by the staff, Despite numerous servers passing by, we seemed invisible. Undeterred, we ventured outdoors again, prepared to inquire about seating. As luck would have it, a table became free just as we turned, and we quickly seized the opportunity. Our newly acquired spot was a gem, perched right beside the seafront with an unparalleled view of the shimmering water.

Settled in, we indulged in a selection of appetizers: crisp spring rolls, golden mozzarella sticks, and succulent fried shrimp. To complement our meal, we chose two specialty cocktails. "From Croatia with Love," a vibrant fusion of vodka, strawberry, mango, prosecco, and orange juice, and "More of 'More'," a tropical medley of light and dark rum, passion fruit purée, grenadine, lime juice, and orange juice

As the sun began its descent, painting the sky and sea in a mesmerizing palette of reds, oranges, and pinks, we were utterly captivated by the scene. While our drinks proved a touch sweeter than expected, they were undeniably delicious, and they paired perfectly with the crunchy textures and flavorful sauces of our appetizers. The culinary experience was a delight, unfortunately marred by the subpar service.

Despite repeated attempts to flag down servers to pay our bill, we were continuously ignored. Finally, we were forced to approach the register to settle up. This significantly impacted our experience; we would rate the Cave Bar a 5/10 due to the poor service. However, had the service been up to par, we would have gladly given it an 8/10, given the awe-inspiring views, the delectable food, and our enjoyable cocktails.

Having paid, we decided to head back to our hotel to rest up. The morning promised an exciting ATV adventure, followed by our departure from Croatia. It had been an incredible day of exploration, spanning two countries and immersing us in the rich tapestry of Croatian history.

Breakfast Buffet

The following morning dawned with the promise of adventure, and after preparing for our ATV excursion, we found ourselves drawn to the hotel's breakfast buffet. What awaited us was nothing short of spectacular – quite possibly the most impressive breakfast buffet we'd ever encountered.

Though the absence of espresso machines was a small disappointment, this was quickly forgotten amidst the culinary delights on offer. From a bustling omelet station to stacks of fluffy pancakes, platters piled high with fresh fruit, and surprisingly elegant seafood selections, every dish was clearly crafted with care and freshness in mind. Content and satisfied, we emerged from the dining area ready to embark on our ATV adventure, the anticipation building as we waited for our guide.

Dubrovnik ATV Tour

Our guide was a little late thanks to traffic, but soon we were on our way to the ATV pick-up spot, a small shop downtown, tucked away in the heart of the city. We selected our vehicles, and I happily paired up with William, remembering my less-than-graceful turns from our Palma de Mallorca cycling adventure. The guide, with a brief explanation of our route and hand signals, soon had us geared up in helmets and ready for the mountains.

The initial leg of the ride was surprisingly smooth, lulling us into a sense of ease. This soon gave way to a more challenging terrain—a rugged landscape of rocks, fallen branches, and splashing puddles that tested our skill. William, expertly navigating our ATV, pushed us onward. Finally, we reached our first destination: the haunting ruins of Utvrda Strinčjera, perched atop Mount Srd. This ancient fortress, once a vital guard post for Dubrovnik, offered a captivating glimpse into the past as we explored its crumbling walls and walked amidst its history.

Re-mounted on our ATVs, we retraced our path to the "Sunset Dubrovnik" viewpoint, a vista so captivating that a second visit was irresistible. The panorama was, once again, utterly breathtaking, a testament to its well-deserved popularity. However, the rough track leading there reinforced the wisdom of our guided tour; attempting to navigate it independently would be an ambitious undertaking.

From the heights, we descended towards our final destination: the poignant ruins of five once-grand hotels – Grand, Kupari, Goričina, Goričine II, and Pelegrin – all perched along the idyllic Kupari Beach. These former havens of Yugoslavian holidaymakers, once bustling with officers and their families, now stood as skeletal monuments to the Croatian War of Independence. The Yugoslav Army had not only looted these paradises but systematically reduced them to charred husks.

The juxtaposition of beautiful coastline and the stark, haunting remains of opulent buildings created an unforgettable, if somewhat unsettling, experience. After exploring the ruins, our ATV adventure concluded with a return to the pick-up point and a transfer back to our hotel.

While the experience was worthwhile, I felt that the guide could have enhanced it with more personal engagement and a deeper dive into the history of the area.

What We Liked About The Tour:

Scenic Beauty: The panoramic views from Mount Srd and the "Sunset Dubrovnik" viewpoint were absolutely stunning and among the most memorable parts of the tour.
Exciting ATV Adventure: The mix of smooth and rugged terrain made the ATV ride thrilling and fun. For those seeking an adventurous way to explore, this was a definite highlight.

What We Didn’t Like:

Guide’s Behavior: The guide frequently stopped, often chatting with their colleague instead of engaging with us. This felt unprofessional and disrupted the flow of the experience. The interactions with the guide felt awkward and lacked warmth, making it harder to feel connected to the tour.
Lack of Historical Insights: There was little to no history provided about the sites, which left us disappointed given the fascinating landmarks we visited. These locations deserved deeper context and storytelling to truly bring them to life.
Accessibility of Sites: Most of the sights, such as Mount Srd and Kupari Beach, are easily accessible via Uber or other transportation. Unless you are specifically looking for an ATV experience, this tour doesn’t add much value.

While the ATV aspect added a sense of adventure and the views were undoubtedly beautiful, we wouldn’t recommend this tour unless you are specifically seeking an ATV experience. The sights are easily accessible by other means, and the lack of historical information, combined with the guide’s unprofessional behavior, made the tour feel underwhelming. With better engagement and storytelling, it could have been a much more fulfilling experience.

Miramare Restaurant

After the ATV Tour, we rushed back to the hotel, just enough time for a quick shower before the 1 pm checkout. Hunger gnawed at us; a four-hour drive and a flight still lay ahead. Thankfully, the hotel staff graciously allowed us to keep our car parked so we could grab a bite at their beachfront restaurant, Miramare.

Miramare offered a promising menu of food and drinks. Our server was quick and efficient, taking our orders with a smile. I opted for a vibrant strawberry spritzer and a chicken egg salad sandwich, while William chose a beer and a classic cheeseburger. My spritzer was a burst of fresh, fruity flavour, perfectly complementing the sandwich. The bread was wonderfully crisp, and the melted cheese was delightfully gooey.

William, however, wasn't quite as enamored with his cheeseburger, finding the texture to be a bit off-putting. Despite his minor disappointment, we thoroughly enjoyed the overall experience. The attentive service, breathtaking ocean view, and my tasty lunch earned Miramare a solid 7/10.

Closing

As we began the 4.5-hour drive to Zadar Airport after lunch, a wave of reflection washed over us, each mile a reminder of the incredible journey we'd just experienced in Croatia.

Our adventure began in Zadar, where the serene beauty of Krka National Park unfolded before us, reachable by a short ferry ride. We were instantly captivated by its cascading waterfalls and palpable history. In Zadar itself, a Tuk Tuk tour provided a dose of chaotic fun, culminating in an unforgettable (if slightly aggressive) seagull intervention during our wine tasting. The subsequent days were a tapestry of exhilarating moments – speeding down mountainsides near Split, wandering through the ancient heart of its Old Town, savoring exquisite meals by the glittering waterfront, and soaking in the panoramic views that stretched across Dubrovnik, Montenegro, and Bosnia.

More than just sightseeing, we delved into the region's rich and often complex history, witnessing ancient remnants alongside contemporary landmarks. Despite a few minor bumps along the way, like occasional service lapses and bumpy rides, the sheer volume of transformative experiences and cherished memories we've collected made it all worthwhile. Croatia is a country that sings with stunning landscapes, resonates with captivating history, and embraces visitors with genuine warmth. We departed with a profound appreciation for its vibrant beauty and culture, already dreaming of our return.

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