Porto, Portugal
Our journey began under a drizzly sky at Frankfurt Hann airport. Despite the rain, our excitement for the adventure ahead was undeniable. We efficiently navigated the pre-flight rituals – baggage drop, security, and the inevitable gate wait – all fueled by the promise of a smooth, quick flight and a tantalizing wine and food tasting awaiting us in Porto at 3:00 PM. Landing was scheduled for 1:20 PM, giving us a tight but achievable window. Would our carefully planned schedule succeed? Read on to find out!
Our luck held: we landed in Porto precisely at 1:20 PM. We practically sprinted off the plane, onto the shuttle to the terminal, and then another race to baggage claim. Unlike some airports known for their luggage delays, ours emerged in under twenty minutes – a welcome surprise! Next up: the quest for the car rental shuttle. If our infamous Uber struggle at Charles de Gaulle Airport is any indication, we’re not always the best with transportation logistics. However, the directions to the rental shuttle were surprisingly straightforward, and the airport itself was mercifully compact.
We located the shuttle area, only to find ourselves embarking on a new mini-adventure: finding the actual shuttle. We combed the sidewalk, expecting a green vehicle given the rental company's name, “Green Motion.” After several passes, I finally spotted the elusive green shuttle at the far end. The driver, thankfully, welcomed us aboard, and we sped off. By this point, the clock read around 2:30 PM, leaving us with a mere half-hour to reach our eagerly anticipated food and wine tour.
At the car rental office, we were met with a flurry of options, most of which felt a bit… much. The deposit was presented as a daunting $1500, but magically dropped to $150 if we opted for their insurance, a $60 investment. We’ve learned from experience that European rentals can be sticklers for even the smallest scratch. So, we always opt for the insurance – it’s a small price to pay for peace of mind. We also purchased the Toll package, eliminating the hassle of countless stops along the way. With the paperwork done, we jumped into our sleek hybrid Mazda. William, bless his heart, isn't used to the quiet of a hybrid, and spent the next few minutes repeatedly turning the car on and off in confusion. Finally, he realized, "Oh, it's just quiet!" Bless him.
With our bags loaded, we hit the road, our destination: the food and wine tour, now tantalizingly close. The GPS indicated only a fifteen-minute drive. As we made our way downtown, the lush scenery captured my attention. It was stunning! Navigating the city proved surprisingly easy, and we quickly found a convenient parking garage. It was 2:55 PM as we set off on foot towards the Bolhão Market.
The streets were a vibrant tapestry of shops, each with its unique character. The area buzzed with a blend of languages: English, Portuguese, and French. It was a truly captivating atmosphere! We finally reached the Bolhão Market just in the nick of time, spotting our tour guide with a mere two minutes to spare.
Taste Porto: Wine and Food Tour
Our Porto food tour began with a warm welcome from our guide, Pedro. Dressed smartly in black attire, complete with a "Taste Porto" logoed hat and sweatshirt, he exuded both professionalism and enthusiasm. After a personable introduction, Pedro outlined our itinerary, highlighted key destinations, and thoughtfully inquired about any dietary needs within our group. He also mentioned we'd be joined by another couple, who were, unfortunately, running a little behind.
Our first stop was the historic "Mercearia do Bolhão", a true gem dating back to the 1800s. Stepping inside felt like entering a charming, old-world corner shop, but one bursting with an incredible selection of fresh cheeses and cured meats. It was a true culinary treasure trove!
Pedro led us to the back of the shop where a lavish spread awaited. We found four trays piled high with delicious treats, a true feast for the eyes! The offerings included:
Queijo saloio de Sicó – a traditional peasant cheese from Sicó
Queijo de ovelha c/ paprica de Celorico – a sheep’s milk cheese infused with paprika from Celorico
Cachaço – a flavorful cold-cured pork neck
Chouriço picante de Lamego – a spicy smoked chorizo from Lamego
Marmelada – a sweet quince jam
All paired with a crisp white wine from the Douro Valley.
While I opted to pass on the meats, my companion, William, wholeheartedly embraced the offerings, reportedly devouring portions from almost every tray! He described the Chouriço picante as having a delightful smoky flavor, reminiscent of pepperoni but distinct and subtly spiced. He was equally impressed with the Cachaço, proclaiming its robust and deeply satisfying flavor.
The cheeses, however, were a revelation for me. They were both incredibly fresh and creamy, and the Queijo de ovelha c/ paprica stood out as my personal favorite, boasting a beautiful smoky essence and a luxuriously smooth melt-in-your-mouth texture. The Queijo saloio, while possessing a stronger, more pronounced flavor profile, was equally delightful. Pedro then suggested pairing the Queijo saloio with the Marmelada, creating a delightful sweet and savory pairing that was truly exquisite.
However, the wine was the true star of the show! Its crisp, refreshing taste immediately impressed us. Pedro explained that it was produced in the Douro Valley, a region characterized by a dry climate. This climate concentrates the sugars in the grapes, resulting in a wine with a naturally higher alcohol content and an intensely sweet flavour. We both wholeheartedly gave the wine a 9/10 rating – it was absolutely perfect, particularly after a long flight and arriving directly here for our tour.
Bolhão Market: A Feast for the Senses
Our return to the Bolhão Market was nothing short of a triumphant homecoming. Stepping into its vibrant heart was like entering a sensory wonderland, a delicious surprise party where aromas collided in the most captivating way.
First, the sweet perfume of ripe strawberries and other fresh fruits washed over us, a gentle overture to the symphony of scents to come. This was quickly followed by the tantalizing fragrance of fresh pasta, its comforting richness beckoning us deeper. Then, a wave of sugary sweetness, reminiscent of just-baked cookies, completed the initial olfactory assault. The market was a culinary rollercoaster, a dizzying array of delights, from glistening meats and colorful fruits to pungent cheeses, shimmering sardines, and perfectly formed pastas - truly a paradise for any food enthusiast.
We learned that this beloved market, originally established in 1839, had recently undergone significant restoration and modernization, reopening its doors in 2022 after a period of refurbishment that began in 2018. Our first stop was Bolhão Wine House, where we sampled a glass of Vinho Verde, a regional specialty. This particular wine, called “Chapeleiro” (2021), was a pale, almost greenish white – a testament to its unique character we learned.
Intrigued, we crossed to a nearby shop overflowing with an impressive selection of canned sardines. Pedro, our guide, explained with enthusiasm how perfectly the Vinho Verde paired with these briny delights. The store owner then produced three boxes of different sardines for us to sample, allowing us to truly experience this harmonious pairing.
Our culinary adventure began with sardines dressed in a rich tomato sauce, perched delicately on a soup spoon. I politely declined this first offering, leaving William to bravely tackle both portions. He was surprised to find that the sauce was more reminiscent of a marinara than a boldly fishy concoction. Next, we sampled shredded codfish, a dish traditionally reserved for Christmas. I hesitantly took a bite, but the taste was, unfortunately, rather unremarkable to me. William, on the other hand, surprisingly adored it. Our final taste was Tuna Belly; again, I sat it out. According to William, it lived up to its reputation – a fine tuna flavor but nothing particularly groundbreaking. He concluded that the codfish, however, was the real star, and he would happily have eaten a much larger portion, especially alongside the crisp wine.
We made a quick stop at a bread-making stall, where they proudly presented their signature creation: a loaf they affectionately called “the hammer.” I'll leave the discovery of what makes its name fitting to another time. Finally, we made our way to our final stop within the market: a butcher shop.
There, we sampled some zestful sausages, which provided a pleasant, though not overwhelming, heat, along with some cured ham, freshly sliced from the leg. The cured ham, with its dense, chewy texture, reminded me of a particularly flavorful beef jerky.
Confeitaria Moura
Just a few blocks from the heart of Porto’s center, where the imposing Town Hall – a local 'Big Ben' – stood testament to the city’s history, we found ourselves drawn to a charming haven of sweetness: Confeitaria Moura. Our guide, Pedro, had just regaled us with tales of the historic power struggles between church and state, and now, he was leading us to a family-run pastry shop that had been tempting taste buds since 1892.
We settled at an outdoor table, the lively buzz of conversation filling the air as we eagerly anticipated our treats. Soon, a delicate white plate arrived, bearing two pastries that looked almost too beautiful to eat. The first, a uniquely triangular confection, boasted a firm top and a layered, crispy base. This was the Jesuita, a millefeuille masterpiece crowned with a cloud of meringue. Beside it lay the Limonete, a round pastry adorned with a delicate lattice of flaky dough, promising a burst of citrusy delight.
Pedro, our culinary sensei, shared the secret to properly enjoying a Jesuita. He demonstrated the art of separating the hardened top, opening the pastry like a book, and then tucking the top within the layers. Following his lead, we embarked on a taste adventure. The textures were incredible – the airy, delicate flakiness combining with a rich sweetness that felt almost sinful. Then, the hidden crunch of meringue in the center elevated the experience from merely delicious to utterly divine. I couldn’t help but wonder why such daily indulgences wasn’t a standard practice in my life! It was a good thing these pastries weren't within easy reach at home; my willpower would surely be tested.
The Limonete was a worthy companion to the Jesuita. Its flaky layers gave way to a bright, tangy lemon curd that danced on the palate, like a zesty party in our mouths, and finished with the perfect sugary glaze. Both pastries were absolute revelations. We are now insistent that anyone visiting Porto needs to try them as well. Fully satisfied, and our craving for sweets appeased, we concluded our pastry experience with sips of rich espresso before jauntily heading off to our next adventure at Taxca.
Taxca
Pedro had built up Taxca as a Portuguese "fast food" haven, and the sight of overflowing tapas and wine bottles instantly fueled our excitement. We dove in, choosing the Bifana – shredded pork slathered in a piripiri sauce – paired with an Espadal, a playful rosé from the Vinho Verde region. Sadly, the Bifana wasn't a knockout for me; the pork had a rather mushy texture.
The dish arrived with two contrasting sauces. One appeared to be swimming in oil, while the other hid a fiery secret. Intrigued by the promise of heat, I bravely sampled it. Initially, it seemed mild, but then—bam!—a spicy onslaught seized my palate, leaving my tongue momentarily stunned. While a fun, unexpected kick, neither sauce quite complemented the pork’s flavor. What the dish really needed was a superhero of a sauce – something thick, rich, and bold to elevate the experience. Despite the lackluster pork, the homemade Portuguese bread it nestled upon was a revelation: soft yet boasting a subtle crunch, it was far better than anticipated.
The Espadal rosé, crisp, light, and wonderfully refreshing, provided a moment of pure spring sunshine on our palates. With our first stop complete, we eagerly set off towards our next adventure: Garrafeira Oli Portugal.
Our visit to Garrafeira Oli Portugal began, as many memorable experiences do, with a detour. Pedro, our soon-to-be guide, insisted on a pre-emptive strike at Confeitaria Aliança. He declared that a proper appreciation of Portuguese Port Wines required a foundation of exquisite pastries, and promptly disappeared inside. He re-emerged triumphantly with not one, but two boxes overflowing with tempting treats.
Garrafeira Oli Portugal
Just a few steps away, we arrived at Garrafeira Oli. Inside, we ascended a spiral staircase leading to a grand table, already set with three wine glasses per person. This wasn't just any tasting; we were about to delve into the world of Port Wine. Pedro, our enthusiastic sommelier, began by unraveling the complexities of Port production, explaining the nuances that distinguish a Vintage Port.
Our tasting commenced with a 10-year-old White Port from Dalva. Its rich, caramel-like aroma hinted at the powerful experience to come and the deep amber liquid had a viscous, almost liqueur-like quality. Paired with a savory mini minced veal pastry, the bold flavor was a captivating and unconventional beginning. I, however, opted for the vegetarian stuffed pastry, and it was a revelation. The fresh, warm vegetables rivaled the best pot pie in their comfort and flavor.
Next was a 10-year-old Tawny Port by Noval, paired with a sugar-glazed puff pastry, a "little Gloria." The Port was a dark caramel color, boasting a complex profile with notes of toffee. While it wasn't a personal favorite, we appreciated the opportunity to experience its distinctive character. The puff pastry, however, was a unanimous hit, reminiscent of a miniature, delectable donut.
The final tasting was a 2018 Late Bottled Vintage Port from Quinta Nova. Its deep red color was alluring, but the taste proved to be what one might call "interesting" – a polite way of saying it tasted strongly of licorice, which wasn't exactly up our alley. Fortunately, the accompanying treat, a Brazilian chocolate and condensed milk truffle (a "Brigadier"), was nothing short of a revelation. The creamy, intensely sweet truffle provided a much-needed counterpoint to the challenging Port, and while a few bites were enough, those bites were absolute heaven.
After our tasting journey concluded, we spent a relaxed time in conversation discussing the experience and veering into lively political discussions as we lingered. Eventually, we descended the staircase, each of us carrying a newfound understanding and appreciation for Port Wine. Our three-hour tour, guided by the exceptional Pedro, was truly enlightening.
What We Liked:
Exceptional Guide: Pedro's professionalism, enthusiasm, and knowledge added immense value to the tour. He was attentive, engaging, and ensured everyone felt included.
Diverse Culinary Experiences: The variety of stops, from historic markets to pastry shops and wine tastings, offered a well-rounded taste of Porto's food and drink culture.
Historical and Cultural Insights: Pedro's storytelling brought the history of Bolhão Market, Confeitaria Moura, and Porto's port wine traditions to life, making the tour feel like a cultural journey as much as a culinary one.
Unique Stops and Experiences: Sampling Vinho Verde at Bolhão Wine House paired with sardines provided an authentic local touch. The creative concept of pairing Port wine with both savory and sweet pastries at Garrafeira Oli Portugal was unique and memorable.
Comfortable Group Dynamic: The small group size fostered a personable and intimate experience.
What We Didn’t Like:
Nothing
The Taste Porto Wine and Food Tour was an enriching and flavorful journey through Porto's culinary and cultural heritage. The expertly curated stops, paired with Pedro's warm and knowledgeable guidance, made the experience both engaging and memorable. While not every dish or wine was to our liking, the variety and overall quality far outweighed the minor disappointments. We Would 100% recommend This tour is ideal for food and wine lovers seeking an authentic taste of Porto. Just be prepared for some bold flavors and a fast-paced schedule. For non-meat eaters or those with specific dietary preferences, it’s worth mentioning in advance to ensure a well-rounded experience.
Eurostars Matosinhos
Emerging from our city tour, we were ready to embrace the authentic charm of Matosinhos. The welcoming spirit of the locals enveloped us, creating an immediate sense of comfort and safety. Each building seemed to whisper stories, beckoning us to explore. After retrieving our car from the parking garage, we navigated to our hotel for the night: Eurostars Matosinhos.
Nestled on a one-way street, Eurostars Matosinhos is perfectly situated amidst a variety of tempting restaurants and mere steps from the captivating ocean's edge. The hotel's parking, a public garage directly beneath the building, presented a quirky challenge. The entrance and exit were unexpectedly reversed, leading to a rather unusual entry on the left side of the road. Adding to the adventure, the absence of corner mirrors demanded some extra caution. Despite the unusual setup, we secured a spot and ascended via elevator, ready to begin our stay.
Stepping into the lobby was truly breathtaking. The atmosphere was one of refined luxury infused with an intoxicating fragrance. Everything gleamed, a testament to meticulous cleanliness. Check-in was seamless, feeling as effortless as a stroll on a sunny day. To our delight, the friendly receptionist not only quickly processed our keys, but generously offered fantastic local restaurant recommendations. This set the perfect tone for our stay.
Our room, located on the third floor, was spacious and inviting. It was equipped with all the modern comforts we'd hoped for, including a minibar, coffee maker, and hairdryer. The bathroom was impressively large, featuring a sleek, walk-in glass shower. Again, cleanliness was paramount and the fresh scent made the room feel like a true sanctuary. While the bed was composed of two twins pushed together, it was a minor detail in the face of such overall comfort. Best of all, there was a balcony: a perfect little haven with seating that overlooked the majestic ocean, promising moments of tranquility with morning coffee or sunset cocktails.
Soon after settling our luggage, a gentle knock at the door revealed a delightful surprise. Room service presented a tray overflowing with treats – fresh fruit, decadent chocolates, and chilled water. We had completely forgotten about the special welcome amenity we'd arranged upon booking. The heart-shaped chocolates added a touch of whimsy, while the juicy pineapple and oranges provided a burst of refreshing flavor.
Following this delicious treat, we were eager to explore the hotel's amenities. We headed to the spa where the crystal-clear pool beckoned and the sauna promised a soothing escape from the world. Excited by the prospect of relaxation, we booked a couples massage for the following day, already anticipating the blissful experience.
With the luxurious spa experience still lingering in our minds, our stomachs reminded us it was time to eat. Hungry and eager for a taste of Portuguese cuisine, we ventured out on foot, ready to discover the culinary delights that awaited us just beyond the hotel doors.
Pizza D'Artista
Our culinary adventure began with a recommendation: Casa Serrao, a restaurant conveniently located across from our hotel. However, a quick glance at the menu revealed a seafood focus – a far cry from what my land-lubbing palate craved. Undeterred, we embarked on a more meandering quest, wandering through Portugal's charming, moonlit streets.
The evening air was magical. Golden light washed over the cobblestones, and the sounds of laughter and conversation created a lively, irresistible atmosphere. We strolled for a while, the city's energy pulling us along. Soon, another recommendation surfaced: Pleasure Sushi. Excited, we requested a table, only to be met with a language barrier. With some gestures, we were ushered to the bar. But there we sat, menus-less and thirsty, as time seemed to slow to a crawl. It was time to move on. A swift Google search pointed us towards salvation: Pizza D'Artista, a haven where the intoxicating aroma of melting cheese and baking dough beckoned us closer.
We settled at an outdoor table, basking in the romantic glow of the moon. The air buzzed with the energy of the crowd, and the delicious smells promised a good meal. To our surprise, the waiter presented us with a tablet for ordering. Scrolling through the tantalizing pictures, we easily chose a refreshing red sangria, two mouthwatering pizzas, and a tiramisu to complete our feast.
The sangria arrived promptly, a vibrant mix of red wine and fruit. I found the generous chunks of apple a bit overpowering, but William was in heaven, savoring the rich, velvety notes of wine mingled with sweet oranges, lemons, and those abundant apples - a tangy explosion of flavor.
But now, to the main event: the pizzas! My choice was the Bianco del Cilento, while William opted for the fiery Diavola. They arrived steaming, with that perfect ratio of crisp crust and gooey melted cheese. Each bite was an explosion of flavor, a warm, comforting hug for our taste buds. We devoured them completely, savoring every last morsel. Finally, the tiramisu arrived, a creamy, decadent treat, the perfect sweet finish to our satisfying meal. It wasn't the best tiramisu I've ever had, but it was certainly enjoyable.
Completely satisfied, we waddled back to the hotel, ready to call it a night. Tomorrow promised a relaxing couples massage and a city bus tour – a perfect blend of indulgence and exploration. Our pizza pilgrimage, though unplanned, had led us to a truly delicious and memorable evening.
Day Two
I woke up bursting with energy, ready to seize the day's adventure. Sunlight flooded the room as I pulled back the curtains and nudged William awake. We quickly got ready and headed straight for the hotel's breakfast buffet. The dining area was a sight to behold: a tempting spread of pastries, fruits, eggs, bacon, and an impressive four espresso machines! I filled my plate with a healthy mix of fruit and eggs, along with a creamy café latte. The food was both delicious and satisfying, providing the perfect fuel for the day ahead. That latte, a caffeine-fueled delight, set an energetic pace for our morning.
The Spa
Following a satisfying breakfast, we anticipated our scheduled massages at the spa. Greeted with warm smiles by the masseuses, we were presented with a choice: a gentle, calming massage, or one with more focused pressure. I opted for the former, while he preferred the latter. Stepping into the spa room was like entering a sanctuary. The air, infused with the delicate scent of lavender, was softly lit by flickering candles, and the gentle strains of tranquil music enveloped us. Two inviting massage beds nestled on either side of the room, promising an escape from the outside world.
My massage was a whisper of soothing strokes, melting away any lingering tension, while his focused on releasing knots held in his shoulders. Eighty minutes later, we emerged, feeling lighter and refreshed. To complete the experience, the spa thoughtfully provided passion-fruit tea and delectable pastries. Though undeniably relaxing, the session didn't quite reach the pinnacle of bliss we had envisioned, It was, nonetheless, a lovely interlude, a chance to unwind and reconnect within ourselves.
Rio Douro River
Eager to explore the city, we'd pre-booked a hop-on hop-off tour, carefully choosing the Ribeira stop on the blue line as our starting point. Following email instructions and online maps, we found ourselves in a bustling area, charmed by the riverside restaurants. Parking secured, we waited for our bus, only to see it roll up completely packed. A brief pang of disappointment spurred us into action. We pivoted to Plan B, a walk to the Sao Bento stop on the red line. This mile-long detour, though unplanned, offered a delightful opportunity to absorb the beauty all around us, a reminder that sometimes the best discoveries are made on foot.
As we strolled along the Rio Douro, a lively current of fellow travelers flowed around us, each adding a unique thread to the scene's vibrant fabric. The sun, a radiant presence, poured its golden light upon us, transforming the mundane into the magical. The graceful Arrabida bridge, a symbol of linkage and endless potential, dominated the horizon. Along the riverbanks, picturesque houses seemed plucked from the pages of a fairytale, while pop-up shops displayed an eclectic collection of trinkets and handcrafted goods. Every direction offered a new marvel, an unexpected source of inspiration, a gentle nudge reminding us of the profound joy in simply existing. Our walk had awakened our appetites, and a delicious lunch was most definitely in order.
Restaurante Mercearia
After perusing several menus during our leisurely walk, we were drawn to a charming spot nestled near the water's edge: Restaurante Mercearia. It was more than just the menu that caught our attention; the restaurant boasted a captivating ambiance that promised a truly enjoyable dining experience.
First and foremost, the menu offered a diverse selection, ensuring there was something for everyone. Its prime location, right beside the glistening water, added an undeniable allure. Most importantly, the atmosphere struck that perfect balance – lively enough to feel vibrant, yet relaxed enough to allow for comfortable conversation. We knew immediately this was where we wanted to spend our lunch.
We opted for a table outdoors, eager to bask in the sunshine and enjoy the surrounding scenery. The gentle breeze and the soothing sounds of the nearby water created an idyllic backdrop for our meal. It was the perfect setting for unwinding and indulging in a leisurely lunch.
Our waiter, with a warm smile, presented us with a delightful starter: crusty, freshly baked bread alongside plump olives and a flavorful tuna spread. It was a promising start to the repast.
For appetizers, we chose a pitcher of refreshing white wine sangria, accompanied by crispy shrimp and savory codfish dumplings. The sangria, with its vibrant colors and fresh apple slices, looked like a taste of summer in a glass. The shrimp, fried to a perfect golden brown, offered a satisfying crunch with each bite. And the codfish dumplings, a testament to the chef's skill, showcased a harmonious blend of delicate fish and aromatic seasonings.
The main courses were equally impressive. I selected the chicken stuffed with mozzarella, a succulent dish generously topped with a smooth sweet potato and carrot puree. The chicken was tender and juicy, with the melted mozzarella providing a creamy, delicious contrast. The sweet potato and carrot puree added a touch of sweetness and earthy flavor that was simply irresistible. My companion chose the oven-roasted shredded codfish, encased in a creamy potato creation. He remarked on the dish's subtle sweetness, its velvety texture, and the perfect balance of savory seasoning. Both dishes left us feeling completely satisfied and content.
Overall our experience was exceptional. We happily rated Restaurante Mercearia an 8 out of 10. The staff were extraordinarily kind, the location was idyllic, and the food was, quite simply, fantastic. It was a dining experience we won't soon forget.
City Sightseeing Tour
Fueled by a hearty meal and renewed optimism (however misguided), we resumed our hunt for the elusive City Sightseeing Tour bus pickup. Our first challenge? The online map proved as helpful as a chocolate teapot, prompting a detour to a ticket vendor for a paper version. This new map, of course, bore no resemblance to its digital counterpart, adding a layer of delicious confusion to our already chaotic navigation.
Undeterred, we pressed onward, guided by a hopeful pinpoint on my phone map. A sudden confrontation with a monumental staircase leading to a bridge level brought a questioning look from my companion – a silent plea of "Are we really doing this?" My response: "Adventure time!" His good-natured chuckle of "Wow, urban hiking," was followed by 210 steps up to a breathtaking reward – a panoramic vista of the river, the city, and the magnificent bridge.
After conquering the stairs, we stumbled upon the Sé Catedral, a Romanesque-Gothic beauty that looked remarkably preserved despite its 1737 completion date. We paused for photos, the sun generously highlighting its intricate details, before resuming our quest for the invisible pickup spot.
By now, we were certain we were in the right area, and yet... no bus stop markers. Frustration mounted. I made one last-ditch attempt, focusing on a promising “Spot #2 - Batalha.” Two blocks later, we were met with… nothing. Twenty minutes and one significant increase in sweat later, I was ready to throw in the towel. William, bless his practical heart, suggested we backtrack to the ticket shop for assistance. Reluctantly, I agreed.
The staff directed us back up the same street we had just abandoned, assuring us we’d find it this time. So, we retraced our steps, once again, feeling like characters in a particularly cruel video game. And there, finally, on the right side of the road, tucked down a side street, was the red bus. The victory was short lived: It was packed tighter than a tin of sardines! We stared at each other, disbelief warring with a desperate need to sit down. But then, a miracle: a few passengers disembarked, creating a glimmer of hope. We scrambled aboard, grabbing a map (yet another variation!), and wedging ourselves into the back, collapsing into what we hoped were our hard-won seats.
This third map, like the others, was a unique specimen. The online map, the first map, and now this map – an entire series of cartographic casualties. And then, to add insult to injury, I noticed something: The pickup spot we’d been searching for at the start of our odyssey was labeled "Inactive." Oh, the irony!
Finally, feeling defeated, but on board, the bus started to roll. We plugged in our headphones, eager to relax and let the city unfold. It was downhill from here, right? Not so much. The audio guide was a disastrous robotic drone, merely announcing, “You are at such place” with all the enthusiasm of a dial tone. Furthermore, the bus seemed insistent on skipping all the advertised stops, leaving us utterly lost in the urban maze.
I can't even begin to tell you which landmarks we actually saw. We had no idea where we were, but I think we passed Torre dos Clerigos, Igreja S. Franciso, Casa de Musica, Castelo de Queijo, and a postcard-worthy view of the Atlantic Ocean. I managed to snag a few photos of the shimmering water. Two hours, a boatload of confusion, and a profound sense of anticlimax later, our "grand tour" sputtered to an end. If the tour was a movie, it'd be a straight-to-the-bargain-bin flick. I rate it a generous 2 out of 10 on the excitement scale, and that’s being charitable. As for booking another tour? I'd rather count individual hairs on my cat.
Finding the bus was like navigating a labyrinth blindfolded, and the audio commentary was… well, it was something. But hey, at least we got some exercise! Now, it’s hotel-resurrection time, followed by a much-needed, hopefully less harrowing, dinner experience.
What We Liked About The Tour:
Chance to See Some Landmarks – Although we had no idea where we were most of the time, we at least glimpsed some famous sights, like Torre dos Clerigos, Igreja S. Francisco, and the Atlantic Ocean.
What We Didn’t Like:
Poorly Marked (or Nonexistent) Bus Stops – The confusion over finding the bus stop was beyond frustrating. The online map was unreliable, the paper maps were inconsistent, and we spent far too long just trying to figure out where to get on.
Overcrowded Bus – By the time we finally boarded, the bus was jam-packed. We got lucky with seats, but it was an uncomfortable squeeze.
Useless Audio Guide – The commentary was monotone and unhelpful, doing little more than stating the name of locations with zero interesting facts or historical context.
Skipped Stops – The bus didn’t seem to follow its advertised route. Stops that were supposed to be part of the tour were completely ignored. In fact, during our entire ride, the bus never stopped to pick anyone up or let anyone off!
Lack of Information – Between the bad maps, the dull audio guide, and the skipped stops, we felt completely disconnected from the city we were supposed to be exploring. We never knew where we were or what we were seeing, making the experience completely pointless.
Inactive Pickup Location – After all our searching, we discovered the pickup location we originally aimed for wasn’t even in use. That information would have been incredibly helpful before our wild goose chase.
We would absolutely not recommend this tour. The tour was a disorganized mess, offering little to no valuable insight into the city. We spent more time trying to find the bus than actually enjoying the experience. The lack of clear information, the terrible audio guide, the skipped stops, and the fact that the bus never even stopped to let passengers on or off made this one of the most frustrating sightseeing experiences we’ve ever had. If you’re considering a hop-on, hop-off bus in this city, save your time, money, and sanity—walk or take public transport instead!
Thamel Mathosinhos
William, ever the planner, had secured us a table at Thamel Mathosinhos, an inviting restaurant practically within spitting distance of our downtown accommodations. A short stroll, especially after a day of touring, was exactly what we needed. As we approached, the restaurant's prime location became even more captivating: nestled right across from the ocean, its expansive windows promised breathtaking views. Stepping inside, we were warmly welcomed by the staff and seated near the entrance, ready to begin our gastronomic adventure.
Our waiter arrived promptly, and we didn't hesitate to place our order. To start, a vibrant Rose sangria, followed by a selection of tempting appetizers: boneless chicken thighs in a spicy Asian sauce and some vegetarian spring rolls.
The sangria arrived first, a vision of delicate pink shimmering invitingly in the soft light. We poured ourselves glasses, the fruity aroma a delightful prelude to the taste. The crisp, chilled rose wine, infused with the bright sweetness of ripe strawberries, offered a perfect balance of tartness. And then, the cool, refreshing kiss of mint, creating a lingering, revitalizing sensation. Quite simply, it was the best sangria we experienced throughout our entire trip!
Shortly after, our appetizers appeared. The boneless chicken thighs, glistening with a rich, vibrant sauce, were a testament to the chef's skill. The sauce, a perfect harmony of sweet, savory, and spicy notes, clung tantalizingly to each piece, displaying a deep red hue and glossy caramelization. A subtle heat from the chili peppers mingled with the aromatic warmth of garlic and ginger.
The vegetable spring rolls, while fragrant and beautifully crisp, didn’t quite achieve the same heights. Although their fresh aroma was divine, the abundance of spinach within proved a tad overpowering. Despite its pleasant crunch, the spinach unfortunately stole the show in a way that wasn’t entirely to my liking.
For our main courses, we opted for chicken curry with fried rice and chicken chow mein. The chicken curry, a fragrant masterpiece, featured tender pieces of chicken enveloped in a luscious, creamy, and rich sauce. The first bite revealed a symphony of exotic spices: cumin, coriander, and turmeric, mingling beautifully with the subtle sweetness of coconut milk and the tang of tomatoes. He thoroughly enjoyed every mouthful. My choice, the chicken chow mein, was equally impressive: a delightful combination of noodles, fresh vegetables, and succulent chicken. It was packed with both flavor and texture. A squeeze of lime, a last-minute impulse, surprisingly elevated the dish to another level, adding a zesty twist.
For dessert, we indulged in classic ice cream cones. He opted for chocolate, while I chose a scoop of salted caramel paired with vanilla. The flavors were perfectly balanced, neither too intense nor too subtle, a sweet and satisfying finale to our meal.
Our experience at Thamel Mathosinhos was truly delightful. The attentive and friendly staff made us feel right at home. The bold, delicious flavors of the food left us wanting more. And the captivating ocean views added an extra layer of magic to the evening’s ambiance. Let's not forget the sangria - it was, without a doubt, phenomenal. With a menu diverse enough to satisfy any palate, we were thoroughly impressed. We happily award our experience a solid 9 out of 10 and would, without hesitation, return for another memorable dining experience.
Now, it's time to retreat back to the hotel and recharge before our journey home tomorrow.
Day Three
The thought of one last Jesuita pastry had us springing out of bed that morning, fueled by a sweet anticipation. Porto, with its charming streets and lingering flavors, had captured our hearts, and we simply couldn't leave without one final taste. A quick map search led us to a quaint pastry shop just a few blocks away, adding a touch of adventure to our already exciting morning.
With the clock ticking towards our departure, we hurried through the streets, our destination Mixpao - a name that promised delicious treats. On the way, a striking roundabout caught our eye. Adorned with a massive, vibrant red net, it was a sight that demanded investigation. A quick online search revealed the sculpture was a tribute to the city's rich seafaring history. It was a fascinating glimpse into Porto's cultural depth, a welcome detour on our pastry pilgrimage.
Mixpao
The aroma that greeted us as we stepped into Mixpao was nothing short of intoxicating. Warm, yeasty scents of freshly baked bread mingled with the sweet perfume of pastries, creating a symphony of deliciousness. The display was a feast for the eyes, from golden breakfast sandwiches to the star of the show – the famed Jesuita. Our decision was instant: three Jesuitas, along with two cappuccinos and a pair of those tempting breakfast sandwiches. The staff were models of Portuguese hospitality - quick, efficient, and genuinely friendly, their smiles only enhancing the welcoming atmosphere. With our carefully boxed treasures in hand, we made our way back to the hotel, visions of balcony treats dancing in our heads.
Back at the hotel, a tempting buffet beckoned. We couldn't resist loading our plates with crispy bacon, fluffy eggs, and vibrant seasonal fruit. Arms full of morning delights, we finally settled onto our balcony, ready to indulge in our feast with a view. There’s nothing quite like a great meal alongside a stunning vista, and we were ready to soak it all in.
The moment arrived – unveiling the Jesuita box. Taking that first bite brought back familiar flavors, though perhaps not quite the same transcendent experience as our initial encounter. This time, we had selected a cinnamon-filled version, its familiar warmth reminding us of a gourmet pop tart. Despite the subtle difference, it was still a delightful experience. And then, the cappuccino. The velvety smooth foam hinted at a surprising note of hazelnut - a revelation! Without a doubt, it was the best cappuccino either of us had ever tasted: a perfect blend of rich aroma, creamy texture, and that subtle, nutty sweetness.
Finally, settled on the balcony, the warm sun on our faces, we took in the breathtaking ocean panorama. The sounds of the waves and the gentle breeze created an atmosphere of pure tranquility, washing over any lingering pre-departure stresses. It was a moment of blissful serenity, a perfect encapsulation of our time in Porto which we knew would become treasured memory, long after we had left the city's embrace.
A melancholy feeling accompanied us as we left the hotel and returned the car, boarding the airport shuttle with a sense of finality. The quick journey felt heavy, the thought of leaving Portugal weighing on our hearts. But as we moved through the routine of airport procedures, our focus turned to the incredible memories we had made.
Settled at the gate, we reflected on our first taste of Portugal. Porto’s charm, the delicious food, and the warmth of its people had created an unforgettable experience. Every moment resonated.
Anticipation for future trips began to build as we waited for our boarding call. Goodbyes are never easy, but we left with gratitude and excitement for future adventures. Portugal had captured our hearts, and our journey with this country felt far from over. Until we meet again, Portugal, thank you for the memories, obrigado and até logo!
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